3. Olympics EAST
Updated May 2009
This sequence of buses gives you access to the river valleys of the Dosewallips, Duckabush, and Quilcene. As this is technically not the rain forest side of the Olympics, you won’t see the lush mosses and epiphytes, but there still are some big trees. The river valleys here tend to be steeper and narrower. They lead to alpine meadows, spectacular views, and connections with other trails.
Although we can see the eastern flank of the Olympic Mountains from Seattle, we can’t get you there any earlier than we can get you to the far side of the Olympics. Those are the breaks: you can’t get over to that side of Puget Sound in time for the early morning run south along Hood Canal; the best you can do is the midday run.
The transit route listed is the approach from the north, via Kitsap and Jefferson Transit. Although you could get there also via Mason Transit, that system doesn’t really help us that much. I can’t really fault them for it: their primary responsibility is to their residents. They offer free service in-county, and fare is just a couple bucks up along Hood Canal. But the connections heading northbound just don’t connect in any way practical to us. Better to take the north route.
Trail Options:
B - Big Quilcene / Marmot Pass
Bus stop to trailhead: 18 miles
Be not dismayed: it may be possible to avoid most of those eighteen miles. More below.
Debarking the Jefferson Transit 1 just past the wide spot in the road that is Quilcene, head up the Big Quilcene Road. Here’s where you have options. You can walk fifteen-odd miles up a meandering series of Forest Service logging roads to the Big Quilcene trailhead (833).
Or (and that’s a big, loaded OR…) about a mile north on the Big Quilcene Road there’s an unmarked trailhead that heads directly over the Quilcene Range, intersecting the logging roads a couple times, and hitting the same trailhead in about six miles.
But beware: shortcuts can kick your butt. Need I repeat? Remember, if you’re walking that logging road you have at least a hypothetical chance of hitching a ride. On that so-called shortcut, there is no such chance. Shortcuts can take longer than the so-called long way. The shortcut, in this case, gains about a thousand feet of elevation quickly.
Anyway, whichever choice you make, the trail leads up to Marmot Pass, with vast meadows and great views down the Dungeness River. You could also head south across Constance Pass and out the Dosewallips.
C - Dosewallips
Bus stop to trailhead: 15 miles
Another long one, but this one is well-traveled; I’ve usually managed to cadge a ride at least part of the way. Head north, head south, or head across Anderson Pass and out the Quinault River.
Near the Dosewallips trailhead is the Lake Constance route (it’s not a trail, it’s a route: it’s brutal). The route gains 3300 feet in two miles, and there are no switchbacks. But at the top sits a lake, surrounded by rocky spires and oddly-shaped pillow lava, formed by lava extruded from the earth at the bottom of the ocean a long time ago. Gallons of sweat, followed by a geology lesson. You are allowed access to Lake Constance by a reservation system, applying early in the year and hoping for admission. It’s worth the trip.
D - Duckabush
Bus stop to trailhead: 7 miles
Wow, only seven miles! There has to be a catch.
There is. Not an unpleasant trip, the Duck is a long, steep-sided river trail that leaves the river’s side twice (for the Little Hump, and then the Big Hump) and then loses a good deal of the elevation you struggled for to drop back to the river, where it stays for about twenty miles before heading into the high country.
Some might say: seen one river—seen ‘em all! I’ve said that, once or twice. But splendid solitude can be found there! Your call.
Other options:
E - Hamma Hamma, Mount Jupiter, Mount Townsend
Seattle to Olympics East Side (Monday through Friday)
| Bainbridge Ferry leaves | Seattle terminal | @ 10:55 AM | Arr. Bainbridge | @ 11:30 |
| Kitsap Transit | Bainbridge ferry | @ 12:10 PM | Arr. Poulsbo Transfer Center | @ 12:35 |
| Jefferson Transit 7 | Poulsbo T.C. | @ 12:40 | Arr. Port Townsend P & R | @ 1:44 |
| J.T. 1 | P.T. P & R | @ 2:05 | Arr. Black Point Road | @ 3:07 PM |
Olympics East Side to Seattle (Monday through Friday)
| Jefferson Transit 1 leaves | Black Point Road | @ 3:09 PM | Arr. Port Townsend P & R | @ 4:24 |
| Jefferson Transit 7 | P.T. P & R | @ 5:06 | Arr. Poulsbo T.C. | @ 6:09 |
| Kitsap Transit 90 | Poulsbo T.C. | @ 6:30* | Arr. Bainbridge Ferry | @ 6:50 |
*There’s only one more KT 90 in the evening, at 7:30, so try not to miss it. From the Bainbridge ferry, of course, simply take the ferry across to Seattle.
There is one run possible on Saturday (look it up yourself—what? Do I have to do everything for you?
Fares:
| Washington State Ferry | $6.70 (westbound passenger fare; eastbound is fare-free) |
| Kitsap Transit | $2.00 |
| Jefferson Transit | $2.50 (day pass--includes out-of-county boarding fee). |